Fishing Methods


Float Paternoster rig Here are the standard float paternoster and sunken float rigs, which can be killer methods for pike and zander, used when livebaiting primarily. Use just enough weight to hold bottom as the zander in particular drop the bait if they feel to much resistance. Some anglers prefer to use a polyball but I think it offers to much resistance, preferring the standard balsa sliding float. There are different sizes of float depending on weight of the bait used.

Ledgered pop up rig Float Ledger rig Two rigs here the straight ledger rig is a standard live or deadbait rig for use over or beside weed beds, I prefer to pop the bait up to catch the eye of any predators in the area. Another adaptation is the float ledger rig, to use on snaggy bottoms. You can then switch quickly from the straight ledger to the float ledger set-up, which should save you losing tackle. The float ledger set up copes well with areas prone to loosing tackle and if fished overdepth presents resistance free baits for zander. The small bottom-end slider float is sensitive to show those often subtle takes that you can expect from zander if fished on a really tight line.

Float Ledger & Paternoster rigs Static float and ledger deadbaiting became a popular way of catching pike and zander back in the 1960's, most anglers then fished the bait hard on the bottom. These forms of deadbaiting had a big impact on the size of fish caught, the larger fish fell to this method more than any other method. I started to do this method back in the eighties and although a slower process, it did seem to pick up the larger specimens. I would puncture the bait whether it be a sea bait or natural and you could see the oils rise to the surface where you cast. Another adaptation was to insert foam to pop the bait up from the bottom about 1 ft, going up to possible 3ft in highly grown weed areas, which seem to give you more confidence that the bait would be seen. Waters affected by dense weed in particular was where I tended to use this method.

Float Ledger rig Straight ledgered and float ledgered rigs using both live and deadbaits was to be a killer method for those hard waters, my main concern was to make the baits more visible, near to dense weed beds in particular. Pike and zander will find baits in any amount of weed especially when there on the feed.

Popping them up in the right circumstances can vastly improve your results when all else fails. You can at times move or twitch the bait in weed or silty bottoms without fear of it being caught up. The technique greatly improved catches on waters and pits and eliminated the problem of dragging in untold amounts of weed every time the bait was retrieved. The float's I prefer to use on these occasions are either the self cocking or pencil type.

Another method of covering vast amounts of water is the Drifter rig, drifting involves the use of a float with a large plastic vane attached. The float catches the wind and moves the bait out searching for the pike. Drifter fishing differs from other forms of long range piking such as ballooning in that the bait is fishing effectively from the moment it hits the water. If a fish is lying fifty yards out in fifteen feet of water, the drifter will present a bait to it, even though it is intended ultimately to travel much further. The rig need not be complicated, but you need wind in order to use it preferably behind you, a poly ball and a greased line works perfectly well also but it may be hard to see at range. I tend to use a large poly ball which is slid onto the top of the stem and locked in place around 2/3 of the way up, using sections of rubber tubing which fit tightly onto the stem, which just leaves the vane to be fitted. Using the drifter is a really effective method once you have it set up. Find a stretch of bank where the wind is off your back and where there is a reasonable depth in front of you and cast it in. Livebaits work best, but drifted deads will be far more productive than static baits.

Precise dropping of baits Bait Boats should not be considered as devices that can only reach distances but can be used to position baits next to features that are a bit tricky to cast to. I have not found that a bait boat catches me any more fish, but what I have found is that I catch different fish to the repeat captures you get from fishing the same swims. They are definitely worth it for pike fishing, I find that on pressurised waters the bigger and more experienced fish tend to move off into places that are unfishable by conventional means.

Float suspended bait rig Livebaiting a debatable issue but nevertheless a deadly method, most pike and zander anglers including myself, fish with livebaits at some time or other, for the simple reason that it often produces the most fish. Whilst in normal circumstances the majority of anglers fish most often with dead baits using sea species, either for the reason that they are always available, or they reckon it is the best method on the day. When I livebait, I don't have any problems justifying why, just in the knowledge that it does help you catch more all be it smaller fish. I don't deny that livebaiting is a volatile issue, nor do I ignore the fact that the antis will use it to score points in their fight against us. What does concern me is that we lie down too easily and give in to pressure too readily. Do the anti-livebait anglers think that if we ban livebaiting the anti-anglers will give up their fight against us ? It is no use pleading that livebaiting with fish is difficult to defend, so it is better to concede that and hope the antis lie down. If we concede that livebaiting is cruel how the hell do we defend the use of maggots and worms ? To those who livebait, I say speak up and defend the method. To those who don't livebait, for whatever reason, defend it for those who do. If you don't it will be maggots and worms you will have to defend next, and lip-hooking the fish you catch.

Wobbled deadbaits provides a natural way to present a deadbait as appearing as a sick or injured preyfish, choose your baits wisely as the constant re-casting of soft baits presents problems. I tend to use harder baits such as the small joey mackerel, herring, trout, smelts, roach, chub and a very tough bait the perch. Spinning baits, sink & draw or wobbling deadbaits as we call it, is a very neglected but effective method to use. Wobbling gives you a simple, consistent method of catching pike from just about any venue that holds pike and zander, another plus is the fact that it can guarantee fish won't be deep hooked. This method will give you a very useful way to locating fish holding areas. A sturdy 2.5 - 3lb test curve rod with a through to medium action is preferred to cast these baits which can be up to 8oz. Any fixed-spool reel will do loaded with 12 - 15lb line, with a reliable clutch, takes on this method can be violent, and so be prepared for baits being snatched close in. pike in particular whack into your bait and on a short line could put a lot of strain on the rod & line. Hooking technique for the baits is as follows, place the barbed point of the top hook of the trace through both lips, the second treble hook placed a couple of inches below pressed lightly into the flank towards the tail. Dip the bait into the margins just before you cast, to see if it floats, if it does then pinch an AAA or swanshot on the trace a foot or so away from it to ensure it sinks.

The method for covering a vast amount of water is no doubt, Trolling, using a boat which you row very slowly, or with an electric trolling motor, you move the baits either suspended using these floats which lock on the line at the chosen depth, or ledgered along the bottom contours of the lake or reservoir. Firstly prepare yourself and the boat correctly laying some foam or thick mat on the bottom of the boat to protect the fish when you catch one. Secondly buy and use some boat rod rest's, these keep the bulk of the rods over the side of the boat, and also holds the rods firmly because if you hit a snag or have a fish on then the first thing the rod is going to do is go over the side if not held firmly - result, lost rod & reel, lost and tethered fish. Have your baits at various depth's to cover as much water as possible, using three rods I would have one at 6ft depth, one at mid-depth, and the last on the bottom dragging along. The bottom bait usually in my case would be popped up about 1ft off the bottom to clear most snags that are down there. Set your reels with the baitrunner on to ensure any taking of the bait has minimal resistance to the fish, the sound of the spool spinning will give you the indication of a bite. Another indication may be that your rod acts like a quivertip, bending around to show a take. Whoever does the rowing should be moving very slowly to cover the water.

The pre-baiting method prior to fishing your venue can be an effective method also, people claimed that it caused pike to swallow baits on the spot, which led to deep hooking but if you are on a tight line and clipped up with good alarms then I see no reason why this could happen. Feeding fish before fishing (pre-baiting) or after fishing gives them confidence in taking baits, and especially if you are introducing newer type of baits, Lamprey comes to mind. Today's improved tackle and bite alarms will detect bite's quickly and therefore minimise if any deep hooking. Pre-baiting does work because pike will be aware of these baiting spots, and can smell them to home in on. They will use their 3 main sensors which are sight, sound, and smell. Pre-baiting requires you to put baits in the water some days before fishing, and on a regular basis, or after a fishing session, but it does work especially on hard fished waters.